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Heather Moore. |
An Early Start
Slowly, the parrots start trickling in: the Mealy parrots (Amazona farinosa), the Blue-headed parrots (Pionus menstruus), and the Chestnut-fronted macaws (Ara severa) arrive first, settling into the tall trees and bushes surrounding the clay lick. The Blue and Yellow macaws (Ara ararauna) arrive next, with the Scarlet macaws (Ara macao) bringing up the rear. Over the next hour the birds wheel over the trees, constantly settling then startling. The noise grows in volume until all that can be heard is a cacophony of cheerful squawking and chirping.
The Mealy parrots and Chestnut-fronted macaws are the first onto the clay lick. We spot a group of White-eyed parakeets (Aratinga leucopthalmus) feasting on the clay. Occasionally, a pair of Blue and Yellow macaws or a Scarlet pair settle onto the clay lick for a quick nibble. However, few of the larger parrots spend more than a few seconds on the clay. They tend to grab a quick bite, then fly off to roost in a tree and enjoy their snack.
We observe many pairs of Blue and Yellow macaws and Scarlet macaws basking in the sun, preening and playing. One pair of Scarlets is observed resting in a nest hole in a large gnarled tree. One White-bellied parrot (Pionites leucogaster) and an Orange-cheeked Parakeet (Pionopsitta barrbandi) are seen but these species seem to number fewer. No Red and Green macaws (Ara chloropterus) are seen. Pepe says that some morning they do not come at all or prefer to come later in the morning. They've been observed coming to the clay lick as late as 11 am.
By far, the Blue and Yellow macaws are the most dramatic in flight, as they wheel in the sky, the sun illuminating their golden bellies. By 7:30 am, there are no birds on the lick. It appears that their feeding time is over. The birds continue to socialize in the trees, calling and screeching to one another. Occasionally, a pair or small group will break away and head back into the jungle.
The Overlook
We start out at 10:00 am on the "A" trail to hike up to the Overlook. Our first sighting is Razor-crested kurowa, a large turkey-sized bird with a red bill shaped like a razor blade standing on end. It is a large, cumbersome-looking bird that we hear crashing through the trees later on. A family of three Brown Howler monkeys (Alouatta fusca) is spotted amongst the bamboo. The female carries a youngster in front. We have been hearing their distinctive hooting call in the mornings. It sounds like the wind moaning in the distance. |
As we reach the crest of the hill, we spot a magnificent sleek black head bobbing far below in the river. It is a Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) dining on a fish he has caught. He amazes us with his size as he climbs out onto the rocks and tosses his now devoured fish aside. He is at least six feet in length, sleek and magnificent. He greatly outsizes the small ocean otters we've seen at Monterey Bay. We watch as he fights his way upstream to calmer water, impressing us with his strength and grace. Upon reaching the furthest bench along the trail, we settle down and wait for the birds. We are rewarded with the sight of a Manu parrotlet (Nannopsittaca dachilleae), a rare sighting our guide tells us. A group of eight Dusky-billed parrotlets (Forpus sclateri) settles in for a closer look at the clay lick below. The males are a beautiful leaf green over their head and body, with a vibrant turquoise blue shimmering beneath their wings, and on their backs and tails. The females are the same leaf green without the blue highlights but with a yellowish tint to their faces and backs of their heads. After carefully examining their environment, they descend to the clay lick below us. We start back for TRC, stopping along the way to admire several Red and Green Macaws playing high above us in the canopy. Two playfully fight with each other, engaging in a mock battle so fierce they fall from their perch and plunge to the earth, still battling. They disengage and pull up before reaching the lower brush. As we continue along the trail we can hear their contented chatter and squawks as the enjoy the sun. As we continue along the trail we spot two more species of monkey: the Dusky Titi Monkey (Callicebus moloch) and the shy Night Monkey (Aotus trivirgatus). After lunch, we discover that two Red and Green Macaws have come to the lodge. One is a "chico" and is accompanied by his cautious wild mate. It is good to see that the hand-raised chico has found a mate amongst the wild population. They enjoy a treat of bananas on the lawn and depart. Piranha Lake We set off for Piranha Lake in the late afternoon. Several Red and Green macaws fly over the clay lick, late-comers to the party. We beach on the far shore of the river and hike across a wide expanse of stones and mud, arriving at a small, murky lake. Here we fish for piranha at the water's edge. In the shallows the smaller piranha dart in and tear at the meat on our hooks. Later we take a short journey up the lake on a shallow canoe. The banks are green and lush. Overhead a flock of Chestnut-fronted macaws call out in warning to each other as pass by. A large flock of White-eyed parakeets flies overhead.
Upon our return, our guide, Pepe, catches a large piranha measuring eight inches in length. We are amazed at the row of sharp, savage-looking teeth. Venturing Out at Night No stay at TRC is compete without venturing out
on a night hike. We take the "C" trail into the night. Along
the way we see many intriguing sights: a cicada emerging from its larval
stage and drying its six inch long wings; a huge rhinocerus beetle
lumbering his way across the forest floor; and numerous wolf spiders
lying in wait for their prey. Their tiny eyes sparkle in the light of
our flashlights. The sinister side of the jungle is revealed in the husk of a flying insect from which the long strands of a fungus are growing. The fungus spores invade the fly, only to grow very slowly, paralyzing the fly over time. The fly's body serves as the food source for the fungus. |
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